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Mutiny wine bar4/24/2023 Originally a pop-up wine shop serving a few nibbles, it quickly gained an underground following and ended up as a permanent wine bar banging out a short and punchy menu of seasonal dishes so popular that tables soon became hard to secure. The Chapel Row restaurant is the second, larger site for Marty Grant and Richard Knighting, who launched the original Corkage in nearby Walcot Street a few years ago. But it’s a small price to pay, for Corkage serves such brilliant food and some stonking wines to go with it. Such knowledge and memory skills are impressive, but disastrous for a plump and lazy restaurant critic who wants to spend the evening eating and drinking rather than scribbling increasingly illegible notes on the back of a napkin. There’s no wine list, either – a request for one was simply met with a big grin and the waiter pointing to his head, saying ‘it’s all up here’. Despite having a small blackboard menu on the table, the menu simply lists the main ingredient and nothing else as staff verbalise the dish descriptions. ![]() In recent months, I have even eaten at restaurants where the menu and wine list are on iPads, which takes stealing menus to a different level entirely and may well end up with a custodial sentence.Ĭorkage in Bath is another place that unintentionally adds to a critic’s workload. ![]() It all started to wrong when restaurants copied gastropubs by chalking them up on blackboards - although the Bible-thick leather-bound menus favoured by country house hotels were always a tad tricky to slip into your unlined linen jacket, too. Reviewing restaurants used to be so much easier when you could save the hassle of writing notes by simply stealing the menu for future reference.
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